Canukkale to Lesvos

I started by taking a bus to Bergama with Canukkale Truva.  They laid on a shuttle to the station, which is a long way out of town.  The actual bus wasn’t as flash as the Kamil Koc one.  We started with few people on board bus made a lot of stops to pick people up.  There was a lunch stop at some random place at 11.30, and only after that did we have a snack service in the bus.

I arrived in Bergama at 12.45 – or rather I was dumped on the side of the road 500m from the bus station at 12.45.  The station had a tourist information desk but noone manning it except taxi touts.  They insisted that the shuttle to Bergama town did not exist.  I managed to split a cab with 2 other travellers then went on to the Acropolis of Pergamon. (Taxi TL20 – I nearly died).

View from the Acropolis

Entry here is TL20, possibly.  There is a discounted entry via the viewpoint above.


It was very exciting finally to see Roman ruins.

Temple of Athena to the right, Bergama town in the distance

There are ruins of peristyle houses, an arsenal, archways, wells, and fortifications.

Roman foundations still in use

Temple of Trajan


There is a cable car to take people up but it’s better to walk down – there are many more ruins from the old town.

Part of the old town


Mosaic flooring

There were some tour groups on the top of the hill but noone on the side – I had it to myself.  Except down one stairwell, where two young lovers thought they wouldn’t be disturbed.   They jumped apart when they noticed me.
“Don’t mind me!  Carry on!”


The terrain reminded me of Mount Wellington, but higher.  Or maybe it was the cowpats.The path down was well marked most of the way, but I couldn’t see any way to go on to the road except through a hole in the fence.  There was a short walk to town, past a Roman basilica.

Bergama old town

As I walked towards the bus station I noticed a post office.  There are no post boxes in Turkey – you have to go in to a post office to send anything.  Since I couldn’t find the shuttle bus I had to take another taxi to the station (electric shock from wallet again).

The bus to Ayvalik runs hourly on the half hour.  Although the route takes only 45min by car the bus takes 1 1/2 hrs because they go on detours all over the place and stop every km.  I also had the world’s slowest bus driver, who went at 50km/h on the motorway.

I arrived at Ayvalik at 5pm.  Fortunately the travel agent was still open, and I could collect my ferry ticket.  But I still had tot make it to the ferry!  I ran down the road and caught a bus that had just pulled up.  It dropped me at the ferry terminal by 5.20.  Phew!

I'M ON A BOAT! Going past the Mytilene castle

The ferry trip was 1 1/2 hrs, and as calm and scenic as a trip to Rangitoto.  At the other end the immigration queue for European and Turkish citizens was huge.  I went straight up to the ‘Foreign’ counter and was passed straight through.

The island of Lesvos is also known as Lesbos.  Yes that one.  Shut up.  It’s a nice little holiday destination, but caters for the cruise-ship demographic, and so I had to stay at a pension for €25!!!! which was the cheapest place.  It came with a TV, extremely noisy air conditioning, no bathroom door handle and mould on the ceiling.  During the evening 3/12 channels were showing black and white programmes.

Everyone seems to drive a 2-stroke scooter, so I had no sleep as they farted past my window all night.



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