I arrived at the train station at 7am for the 8am train.
But I did get a ticket after 30 min in the queue. It’s $26 to Tampin. The station itself is from the 1920s but will close on 30 June 2011. So I was one of the last to see this Imperial majesty:
The immigration process is a bit haphazard – you pass through Malaysian customs first at the train station, who don’t stamp you passport, then go through industrial-strength Singaporean customs just before the causeway. Make sure you keep your train ticket for when you leave Malaysia. The train passes through 220km of palm plantations and small towns. If you want to go to Malacca you have to get off at Tampin (5 hours).
and catch a bus to Malacca (about an hour)
The steel chequer-plate floor in the bus was worn smooth. The air-con was the same as the Mini and was quite effective. I arrived in Malacca and had a dinner of chicken balls – just rice balls served with chicken and some sort of soy sauce.
I stayed at the Samudera hostel on Jln Melaka Raya 1. It’s just up from Shirah’s. Don’t go there. It’s expensive (RM18/night) and I had a stuffy room with no natural light. The hot water heater in the shower exploded when I turned it on. Laundry is RM5/kg. Even in the off-season the hostels seem to be full so you may want to book ahead.